Sunday, Lovely Sunday

Everyone's been emailing me, asking for pictures.  So...  photojournalistic essay time!  

Really I'm killing a few birds (so to speak) and giving people what they want.  Some of you will be able to live vicariously through my vicarious living.  The rest of you will (hopefully) get your entertainment fix for the week, in the form of my blog. 

See how good I am to you all?

Sunday morning started with a writing session at Bar de Cao, the café across the street. 

I've been going there most days to work.  It's quaint inside, the waitresses are friendly and leave me alone, there's plenty of seating, and the doors aren't tricky.  All pluses.

After a couple hours at the laptop, I decided I'd walk to the Feria de San Telmo to see what was going on.  Mostly I just wanted to work off the medialunas I ate.

The walk is roughly twenty blocks I'd say—twenty-five minutes if you trek like I do.  At one point, I had to cross Avenida 9 de Julio:

I've been wondering what happened on the 9th of July that warranted having such a big-ass street named after it.  The picture doesn't really show how huge it is—the sucker is twenty lanes across (ten each direction).  Yeah, I could look up to see what historical significance the date has, but I've been having too much fun speculating each time I cross the road.  (Today I theorized that it was named after the day the first Starbucks opened in Buenos Aires.)

Anyway, I walked on to the Feria.  A feria is basically a street fair.  The one in San Telmo is each Sunday and the largest one in the city.

Lots of artisans selling their wares.  Also lots of musicians and tango dancers, though the dancers didn't impress me (my sister has raised my bar).  There were a couple flamenco guitarists who were awesome though.

To the left, there's a square where people have strange booths set up, selling not just antiques but weirdness.  Like there were these two old women dressed up as babies or dolls or something.  What was up with that?  And there was a man dressed as a big eyeball.  (I'm not clever enough to make that up.)

See the hordes of people?  It's like that for blocks and blocks:

But there's plenty of opportunity for respite.  You can pick up a cold beverage and grab a curb, like the people above. 

Jugo de naranja (fresh-squeezed orange juice) is very big here.  There's an orange juice vendor every five feet.  So if you have a thing for OJ, Buenos Aires is the place to be.

And lastly...

Me, happily disheveled at the end of the day, looking forward to the next morning's medialuna fix.

Posted by Kate (duh) on 17 November 2009

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Comments

  • Are those peanuts on the OJ stand? Is that some magical combo there? OJ and peanuts?

    Posted by Jen, 17/11/2009 6:11am (10 months ago)

  • I'm not sure what those are--almonds? They roast all sorts of nuts on the streets here. Almonds, pistachios, peanuts... It smells so fricking good too. It's on my list to try.

    Downtown they don't mix their nuts and juice. The nut roasters (I just like saying that) are usually separate from the orange juice hawkers.

    Posted by Kate, 17/11/2009 6:34am (10 months ago)

  • Hmmm...I was thinking maybe the nuts were salted, which would make people thirstier, thereby selling more oj....Perhaps I've overthought this?

    Posted by Jen, 17/11/2009 7:57am (10 months ago)

  • You're overthinking it. :) But then I'm gullible, so what do I know?

    The nuts are coated in stuff--some salty, some sweet. It's possible they sell more OJ because of them... I've never seen anyone buy any off an OJ vendor though. Why not buy a fresh baggy from the nut roaster (snicker) a few feet away?

    Posted by Kate, 17/11/2009 8:05am (10 months ago)

  • There are nut roasters in New York too *snicker*.

    You're so cute!

    You should try the nuts from the nut roasters. And the OJ. That looked good.

    Posted by Parisa, 17/11/2009 9:15am (10 months ago)

  • also:

    comme. il. faut.

    just sayin. :) size 35. hehehe

    Posted by Parisa, 17/11/2009 10:42am (10 months ago)

  • The OJ is really good, and I don't love OJ.

    If it's not pouring rain tomorrow, I'm going to stop by Comme Il Faut and send pictures to taunt you.

    Posted by Kate, 17/11/2009 12:15pm (10 months ago)

  • Thanks for your update.
    How do you communicate with the people? English or Spanish?
    How about food?

    Posted by Ahmad (uncle), 17/11/2009 8:30pm (10 months ago)

  • I speak a mix of Spanglish that is all my own. ;) Actually, most people don't speak English, so you have to get by with Spanish.

    I've been eating a lot of steak. :) I stop at one of the butchers and get it fresh whenever I feel like. Milanesas are big here too--thinly breaded pieces of meat or chicken.

    The empanadas are awesome. They're like pasties or little wrapped tarts filled with meat, chicken, cheese, veggies, etc.

    Lots of pastries and bread. Also lots of pizza and pasta. There's a pizza place on practically every corner and tons of shops that sell fresh pasta. Damn them.

    And then there's the artisanal beer and ice cream. They take beer and ice cream seriously here. I like that about them.

    Posted by Kate, 18/11/2009 5:17am (10 months ago)

  • I love seeing pictures of places I'll probably never get to. Thanks for sharing.

    Posted by carol, 18/11/2009 8:04am (10 months ago)

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